Tenda P200 V2 or V1 Identification


Greetings from Canada.

Just received my pair of Tenda P200 from the UK (Pounds19.63 & S & H pounds3.72).

According to the pictures on your "blog" my Tendas P200 should have been the new V2s...however...they are the older V1s. See attached pictures.

I think the only way to get a definitive identification is to teardown the P200 (which I did).

They have the same numbers as the one that Walt Holm tore down earlier.

I think I received the older V1s in a new V2 box !!.

I have recently ordered the controller board, I just have to wait and see which version 2.5 or 2.6 I receive

Hope this doesn't cause any confusion.



Pik 1Tenda P200

Pik 2Tenda P200



That link shows how to make 2.6 board work with v1 tenda. Its all good. :)

And it is good news for people who want the v1 that they have it in the UK. :D


Seems I’m a johnny come late but, anyway, it might be useful. The P200 solved a problem which limited us to SD video over copper. Now 1080p through Vitec zero latency encoder for immediate operator response. Had a couple of D-Link DHP-P309AV powerline adapters lying around so opened up and the PCB pulls straight off. They’ve used plugs on those pins rather than solder them into the adjacent board. D-Link’s offerings go to 2G and I’d guess the PCB’s the same. Worth a look for adding high resolution stills via GigE to the transmission traffic.


Could you clarify.
Are you saying that inside the D-Link DHP-P309V there is a Tenda P200
V2 pcb board that the OPENROV use on the Controller Board 2.7 and also
on the Topside Interface Board?
I am having a hard time finding an economically priced Tenda 200 V2
that ships to Canada …there’s lots of V1s around.



Just deleted attached pics so it’s over to your imagination. Not quite, it’s a small board but functionally
the same. The Tenda’s got 3 pins for power and the D-Link has 6 - 3 of which
appear to be ground and 2 positive. Whatever. I took the sockets for the power
and signal off the D-Link power board and soldered them into my power board –
12 to 3.3V. There’re 3 torx screws
holding the powerline adapter together, one’s under the label. Open up and
simply pull the comms PCB out, recover the sockets for the pins, sort out your
power supply and plug them together.

I see that D-Link has a discontinued powerline adapter
married to an Ethernet switch (D-Link DHP-540 4
Port Gigabit AV 500 Power Line Switch). Just paid for one off eBay with the
expectation that I can connect video, GigE stills and control relay to it down
below on the towed camera. I’d hazard a guess that most, if not all, powerline
adapters have separate boards for power and comms.