This was quite the process and I appreciate Eric and David being so patient with me. I have learned a lot about Open ROV since first purchasing it. It was super fun to build and here are a few tips for people diving into this build.
Bonding The Plastic
They say that you should find an equivalent acrylic cement to the TAP stuff the recommend. I thought about trying to find some locally because I am impatient. I ordered the TAP stuff they recommend and waited. After using it I can see why they recommend it and I wouldn't recommend using anything else. The stuff is fantastic and a perfect fit for building the ROV.
Sealing The Tubes
When using the Teflon tape to help seal the battery tubes and end caps, it helps a lot to wrap them a few times before you put the O-ring on as they describe. I found that when you insert the end caps into the tubes the Teflon gets caught up and pushed over the rubber O-ring causing it to leak. I *carefully* used a razor to cut the excess Teflon away on the part of the cap that will be inside the tube. This kept it from bunching up over the O-ring and sealed the tubes tight.
Programming The ESC's
When programming the motors in cockpit (Second part of the programming). They have to be plugged into the board and I wasn't sure which motor went to which ESC.
1. Turn all of the ESC's off.
2. Turn one ESC on while holding the reset button while it is plugged into the board (this may cause more than one motor to activate). The motor that sort of jumps with each beep is the motor connected to that ESC. You can then program them in the Cockpit.
3. After you have identified which motor is which, on this step "4. Press reset once and the green LED should come on and you should here a single beep." make sure the calibration slider is in the center for beep 1. The first beep is calibrating the motor at rest (0 - 1 beep). The second is calibrating it at full forward (1 - 2 beeps) the third is full reverse (-1 - three beeps). Maybe it is just my stupidity, but it took me a while to figure that out. I kept calibrating the motor at rest all of the way to the left. Whoops.
I also used some cheaper Loctite epoxy to pot the battery tubes and end caps. This has yet to be proven over time and at depth. So far so good. I would recommend not using the 1 minute set epoxy, it seems to get a lot hotter and shrink a bit when setting. The 5 minute set Loctite seemed to work better. I'll report how they work over time.
If I think of anything else I will post it.