I ordered a "flexusb" link below hoping it would be short enough to be of service like the white one Eric shows in the assembly videos but its too long. I will keep looking for that one but if anyone has an idea of where to get those let me know.
I just want to mention another alternative for connecting the camera to the beaglebone...
Since I was not happy with all the USB cable stuffed into the electronics compartment, I soldered the white USB cable directly to the camera which turned out to be very easy.
Open the camera housing by removing the two small screws on the rear side and cut the camera cable appr. 3 cm before the small white connector on the PCB. Remove the old (long) cable from the housing, cut the end of the white cable and insert it through the cable hole at the rear of the housing. Then solder the white cable to the remaining wires at the PCB connector (colors are the same, so you don't have to note which wire goes where) and protect them with heat shrink tubes (small ones for each wire and a larger one for the whole cable including the shielding). For strain relief, secure the cable with a small zip tie an reassemble the housing - done.
Controller Board 2.6 using with Afro 12Amp ESC
The "cooldrives" usb thingy people wanted like $12 for shipping. So I added a USB male connector to another order and shortened the usb cable and soldered it on. Soldering these is a little tricky but I gave it a good tug and it seemed fine, it should stay on. The genius usb camera has wires that are colored just as they should be, nothing funky (following the pinout guide on the following page: http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml). Then I used a pack of sugru to make a sharp enough bend hopefully to the wire coming out of the unit. Havent fully tested but should be fine. Cheers.
I first shortened the black camera USB cable, but didnt think of using the white cable alone. I've now cut the white USB cable and connected it directly to the camera instead.
I've removed the two small screws, the camera case will not split. Both ends are free but the middle around the lens is held internally.
How much force did you apply to split the case?
Worked it out. For others, there are two small tabs on the back case in the centres. I used a small driver slipped through the pivots to exert a force at right angles to the lens to spring the edge up and out. The case pops open.
I have soldered the four (red, black, white, green) PCB USB wires to the shorter white right-angled USB lead and protected them with heat shrink. I then tested the camera on a MacBook Air and the camera drew too much power which caused the laptop to shut down the USB port. I was unsure if I was supposed to connect the shielding wires from the white USB cable to the fifth wire coming out of the white connector on the PCB (black and a tiny bit thicker than the other wires), so I did and tested on the laptop again with the same results. I have double checked the solders and all appears good! Any ideas?
It's not necesary to connect the shielding at the camera side of the cable. USB color codes are
1 red (+5V)
2 white (data -)
3 grenn (data +)
4 black (ground)
Did you measure if there is a short circuit between two of the wires (especially between +5V and ground)?