Problems connecting and updating arduino


#1

Hi,
I have been struggling with my 2.8 version and still not able to connect properly to it…
First the BBB was fried, so i got a new one. Now atleast that fires up with all ble lights (as long as i do not connect it to the ROV via the port attached to the ROV). When i connect via network + USB directly to the computer, it does boot and stay on. However when i try to update the arduino, after updating BBB, i get the following error log:

staging: build dir is /tmp/tmp.5VHRby61t4
staged src in to build folder

staging plugins
mv: cannot stat ‘/tmp/tmp.5VHRby61t4/src/Device.cpp’: No such file or directory
sed: can’t read /tmp/tmp.5VHRby61t4/src/Device.cpp.template: No such file or directory
rm: cannot remove ‘/tmp/tmp.5VHRby61t4/src/Device.cpp.template’: No such file or directory
src/OpenROV.ino
Searching for Arduino lib version file (version.txt) … /usr/share/arduino/lib/version.txt
Detecting Arduino software version … 1.0.5 (1.0.5)
Scanning dependencies of src
Scanning dependencies of arduino
Scanning dependencies of EEPROM
Scanning dependencies of SPI
src/NModuleManager.cpp
src/CControllerBoard.cpp
src/CControllerBoard.cpp:29:18: error: ‘A8’ was not declared in this scope
int temppin = A8;
^
.build/uno/Makefile:218: recipe for target ‘.build/uno/src/CControllerBoard.o’ failed
make: *** [.build/uno/src/CControllerBoard.o] Error 1
Searching for Board description file (boards.txt) … /usr/share/arduino/hardware/arduino/boards.txt
Searching for Arduino lib version file (version.txt) … /usr/share/arduino/lib/version.txt
Detecting Arduino software version … 1.0.5 (1.0.5)
Searching for Arduino core library … /usr/share/arduino/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino
Searching for Arduino variants directory … /usr/share/arduino/hardware/arduino/variants
Searching for Arduino standard libraries … /usr/share/arduino/libraries
Searching for make … /usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/make
Searching for avr-gcc … /usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-gcc
Searching for avr-g++ … /usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-g++
Searching for avr-ar … /usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-ar
Searching for avr-objcopy … /usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-objcopy
Make failed with code 2
firmware-build.sh: : Compile of the Arduino image failed.
firmware-installfromsource.sh: Building Firmware Failed! Aborting

Trying to connect it via homeplug results in power going off in the BBB and failure to connect.
Any help or leads would be appreciated:)
BR
TR


#2

Are you getting these error messages when the BBB is detached from the controller board? The Arduino is located on the controller board so the boards need to be physically attached in order for the data to be transferred from the BBB to the controller board.


#3

Hi,
When i disconnect the BBB to the controller board, it all works fine.
I have been able to connect to cockpit via network + USB from computer, but not when connecting via the controller board.

When i do a «normal boot» it starts with the blue lights, but soon after the BBB stops (no more blue lights), then only 2 green lights on controller + 1 or 2 orange lights on the controller board…

I am a bit lost here…
BR
TR


#4

Sorry, a bit confusing answer. The connection is basically Ethernet + USB directly to the BBB from Laptop, but no lights on the CB. Could this be lack of power?


#5

The only time you should be powering the BBB via USB is when it is standing alone, without being attached to a controller board. If you’re attached to a controller board and you’re powering the BBB via USB, I can’t guarantee you that something is going to smoke, but the controller board isn’t going to work, and the BBB will be very unhappy.

If you have a 2.8 kit, the best way to test it is to put batteries in the battery tubes, set the E-chassis onto the DB-25 endcap, and take it from there. If you are having issues with the Homeplug adapter and want to talk directly to the BBB, you can connect your Ethernet cable directly to the BBB, bypassing the Homeplug adapter. But you will still need to apply power to the tether via a USB connection to the topside box- the topside puts 5V on the tether, which the ROV senses and uses to turn itself on.

-W


#6

It´s a miracle… and a shameful one… The problem was low battery power.
Changed them all and now it seems to work:)


#7

hi, one last question (for now) : I am only getting 5.2V but a solid 0,940A on the dashboard.
Not able to do much, as neither motors, lights or cameras are “responding”. What could cause the low voltage?


#8

5.2V is too low of a voltage to power the ROV. What currents do you see for BT1 and BT2 in the telemetry stream on the right side of the cockpit screen?


#9

I think you mean battery tube currents. The only telemetry point for voltage is the main battery bus.


#10

Thank you for the correction @Walt_Holm. I did in fact mean current and have fixed my post above.


#11

Hi again, i checked now, and i am only getting reading for BT1 (between 1.07-0,99). BT2 is not showing anything (0.00) and BRDV is at 5.22 - what tube is BT1 and BT2?


#12

Got both tubes working by putting more preassure on the endcap. Now showing 0,45 each. Still at 5.2V


#13

Do you have a multimeter? Can you measure the voltage of each individual battery in the tube? What type of batteries are you using?


#14

I am using Energizer alkaline batteries, just replaced them all with new ones…And they are showing approx 1.6v each - so i am guessing that i should have gotten some with 3.7V rather than these…


#15

Yes, you will need batteries that can provide more voltage. You will also need batteries that can source enough current to run the motors. Standard alkaline batteries will not be able to do this (even if they have a high enough voltage). My recommendation would be to either purchase batteries from our store, or find comparable batteries from a supplier close to you. Here is a link to the specifications of our batteries. You are going to want size 26650 batteries with a high continuous discharge current. The battery chemistry LiFePO4 is the most stable and very safe and reliable.


#16

Hi Walt,
Greetings from Vancouver Island.
I too am having problems with updating the software on my v2.7 ROV.
I have been in communication with Brian G, . Still cannot operate ROV correctly, , have not heard from him since my last e-mail?

Regarding your comments …"_the only time you should be powering the BBB via USB is when it is standing alone, without being attached to a controller board. If you’re attached to a controller board and you’re powering the BBB via USB… I can’t guarantee you that something is going to smoke, but the controller board isn’t going to work, and the BBB will be very unhappy ".

Seems confusing to me when compared to;
Update Software Image from SD Card (for eithër v2.7 or v2.8)
See Step 11 Apply Image to BBB
under the i section states;… “If you removed your BBB from your controller board you can now reattach it.”

Infers that one could leave the BBB connected to the controller board while updating the software to the SD card ???
Perhaps I have misunderstood the instructions?

Can you clarify, as I think that this might be the cause of a few problems for ROV ers.?

You could check with Brian G re my software updating issues.

best regards
shaughan


#17

First I would like to apologize for the lack of communication through our support channel. The last communication I have listed with your support ticket was a response I sent on March 11 with a few suggestions of things to try. I never heard anything back from you so the ticket was automatically closed after a week. Your response may have never reached us, or lost was lost somewhere in our system. Could you please either email me back through the support channel or PM me?

As for the instructions, the assumption is that you removed the BBB from the controller board (as shown in the pictures. If you did not remove the BBB from the Controller Board you should power the ROV normally (batteries in the ROV and then turn it on by plugging the microUSB cable into the topside box). I have made a note to make this a little more clear in the instructions. Thank you for bringing this to our attention.


#18

Hi Brian,
Thanks for e-mail re Problems connecting and updating software.
As far as I can tell, ( I may be wrong), there is nowhere in the
software updating instructions that specify to disconnect the BBB from
the Controller Card., the picture may infer that, but the instructions
in Step11 and under i imply that one could leave the BBB connected to
Controller board.
Also updating instructions Step 1 under i … recommend to use Class
10 Micro SD cards. (May be an issue, may be not)

I think that if Walt implies that by trying to update the SD card into
the BBB whilst it is still connected to the Controller Card, might
"toast"either BBB or Controller board, then several ROV ers may have
"toasted"equipment , myself being one!!!
I am still waiting to receive my Class 10 cards and try out to see if
using class 10 or Class 4 makes any difference or solves my
software/operation issues.

I am not a “softie” or know the ins and outs of software/electronics.
I think your instructions should be very specific.;
IE- When updating software use Class 10 SD Cards …and …remove
the BBB from the Controller Board. …Do not use “recommendations” or
"inferences" …be very specific, No assumptions.

I don’t know for sure yet if my Controller Board or BBB or both are toast.
Is there a way that I could check out if my BBB and controller card are
functioning and operating correctly?

But for me to replace them would cost approx US$250 not including
shipping and custom duty etc . I can’t afford that. (at least $400 Canadian)
I have had my ROV working OK for previous year, it was only when I
updated to the new version software(30.01.3) that my problems started.

Shaughan

Brian,
I previously sent this, but not sure if you received?

Hi Brian,
Thanks for your reply.Spent several hours over the weekend trying to
trouble shoot my ROV.
I appreciate your efforts, it is difficult to diagnose from a distance,
with information provided by an amateur like myself.
I 'll try and summarize.

First set of Tests using the 30.01.3 software (which was downloaded on
to Class 4 Micro SD Cards, which I think is the problem)
Whether I try to run off the FLASHED emmc or the Micro SD Card I get
similar results.
Using a Surface Power Supply Adjustable 12vdc 20amp supply
Using 100ft tether.
For Both scenarios ; Notes
Surface Voltage Voltage at DB25 Connector Cockpit Display
Voltage Displayed on Cockpit
USB Not Connected
Using Flashed emmc; USB Not Connected 13.89vdc
13.55vdc Not Applicable
Not Applicable
Using Micro SD Card USB Not Connected 13.90vdc
13.54vdc Not Applicable
Not Applicable

USB Connected
Using Flashed emmc; USB Connected 13.84vdc
Fluctuates 12.7v to 13.2 No Connection/Display unknown
Initial Power Up sequence of BBB
The BBB has 5 Blue LEDs . One Power LED and four USER LEDs, USR 0 ,1,
2, 3.
Initially: all 5 LEDS on ,the four User LEDs being Solid On.
After a few seconds the 4 User LEDs go off then start to blink randomly.
Still blinking after several minutes.
ESCs Do Not power on, no LEDs light up.
The ROV does NOT “Boot-Up”.

Using Micro SD Card USB Connected 13.88vdc
Fluctuates 12.6v to 12.95vdc No Connection/Display unknown
Initial Power Up sequence of BBB
The BBB has 5 Blue LEDs . One Power LED and four USER LEDs, USR 0 ,1,
2, 3.
Initially: all 5 LEDS on ,the four User LEDs being Solid On.
After a few seconds the 4 User LEDs go off then start to blink randomly.
Still blinking after several minutes.
ESCs Do Not power on, no LEDs light up.
The ROV does NOT “Boot-Up”.

Then I did a full Power Cycle by depressing the Power Button on the BBB
for about 20 seconds.
Basically the same result for both scenarios either running only off the
FLASHED emmc or the Micro SD Card.
Initial Power Up sequence of BBB
Initially: all 5 LEDS on ,the four User LEDs being Solid On.
After a few seconds the 4 User LEDs go off then start to blink randomly.
Then after a couple of minutes the 4 User LEDs start to blink
sequentially< (which is correct)
ESCs Do power up, LEDs light up.
The ROV does “Boot-Up”.
The Cockpit Display comes on.
Voltages 13.85vdc
Fluctuates 12.66v to 13.2vdc Cockpit Display On 11.6vdc
All functions operate via keyboard
When For/Backward Thrusters on only
stabilizes @ 10.2vdc
When vertical Thruster on only stabilizes @ 10.6vdc
When both Thrusters and vertical on together
stabilizes @ 9.6vdc

Next tried to use my original 2.51 software on the SD Card only .Initial
power up similar to using either scenarios of the 30.01.3 software.
Similar surface and DB25 voltages .
The ROV did not Boot Up.
Even on doing a Power Cycle the ROV did NOT Boot Up.
Cockpit Screen did not show up.
ESCs did not power up.
The Controller Card would still have the 30.01.3 Arduino firmware. I was
unable to update to the 2.51 version

Observation;
After successfully performing the initial 30.01.3 software upgrade.
And successfully updating the Arduino Firmware as shown/displayed on the
Firmware Updating Screen Then powering down.
Have not since, been able to Boot Up in the correct manner (only by
doing Power Cycle on BBB card).
Unable to re-update the Arduino Firmware, either the 2.51 version or the
30.01.3 versions.
I don’t think I have power/voltage problems?
The voltages do not drop sufficiently enough to stop the operations of
the controller card.
I don’t know if separating the voltage connections to the DB25 plug
from, ground 4to7 together, to 4 and 7 separate. Similar separating 5to6
together, 5 and 6 separate, would make any difference?

I am not sure of the technical differences between the Class 4 and Class
10 Micro SD cards other than each cards’ ability to down load data,
either at 4MBPS or 10MBPS.
I think that by using the Class 4 instead of the Class 10 SD cards I may
have corrupt data on the cards ?

I think a solution would be to erase the Arduino Controller Card
Firmware and start again with a correctly FLASHed SD Card (Class 10).

I don’t see any Reset /Reboot buttons on the Controller Card.
Is there a ’ Hack" on the card that I could do to erase the Firmware ?

best regards
shaughan


#19

Shaughan:

If your BBB is attached to the Controller Board, you should power it with the controller board. If you’ve detached the BBB from the controller board, there are a number of different ways that you can power it, but a USB cable is probably the easiest.

I looked at the Step 11 for the Software Update procedure. Yes, it’s a bit confusing. I’m assuming that Brian will change it.

The problem with powering the BBB with USB while its attached to the controller board is that you’re putting power onto a number of lines on the controller board, without the controller board itself being powered. The two primary areas are the UART level shifter, and the 5V input pins on the BBB.

So I did some research to see what the vulnerability of both those areas are.

On the BBB, there is an NCP349 input voltage protection circuit on the 5V input (the 5V input pins on the expansion headers, and the 5V barrel connector), that will switch off the input whenever it’s outside the range of ~3.5V -5.5V. That’s good, as it means that power won’t backflow from the USB power rail to the 5V rail (and from there to the 5V circuits on the controller board) if the BBB is being powered by USB.

The UART level shifter (a Texas Instruments TXB0108- part U7 on the controller schematic) is a little trickier. It’s supposed to be able to withstand having only one side of the chip powered, but TI only guarantees this if the OE is not enabled. Unfortunately, as soon as the BBB starts up it enables the OE pin of the level converter. From a casual look at the datasheet, I can’t tell you exactly what happens at that point.

So, bottom line, what happens if you power the BBB via the USB cable, while it’s attached to the Controller Board? I don’t know, since I’ve never run any formal tests of that case.

At this point I’d just continue working with tech support to try to resolve whatever’s going on with your ROV.

-W


#20

Another chapter in this story:) I just got new batteries, and now the CB is starting up fine, but not the BBB. For some reason it boots and starts properly when disconnected (and directly connected to the laptop via USB), but now, no boot, no power on BBB when connected… Any ideas? I have not recharged the 3.2v batteries yet, could this be due to voltage? I am surprised that the CB starts with all lights (for the first time), but absolutely no lights on the BBB… After all, the BBB has started fine with the alkaline batteries earlier - so this is a big surprise to me. As said, the BBB starts fine when disconnected from the ROV, and connected to the laptop via USB.

Very eager to test the ROV now, so any pointers here would be appreciated :slight_smile: