@Tom_Vidar_Salangli You should be fine with the v2.6 ESC’s,
@forttusken2001 I was originally planning on buying straight from General Plastics because I also need a larger piece for my next ROV. I’ve custom ordered parts before so once I do some more R&D on buoyancy placement, I’ll put in a request.
Sorry I don’t have good data yet on the run times, but during my trials, they have all been over an hour and that was with the “auto depth” function on pretty much the whole time.
@Paul_S Love to see your ziptie strain relief when you get a chance. I added two when I attached the female end to the frame.
@Scott_W The only source for the Seacon connectors “off the shelf” has been from Amron. I don’t mind the extra cost because I know what I am getting and I know they will work at depth.
I am up for suggestions on the plug. I currently have a piece of thick black heatshrink over the previously heatshrunk connection so not all the tension is on the solder connection. It’s sturdy, but I won’t be lifting it out of the water by the tether anytime soon. A fair trade off for having the tether detachable.
Although it is balanced, I think there is far too much weight forward of the thrusters, not necessarily that they are up too high. I have to play around with it.
@Stretch Thanks for the physics lesson. It’s the same concept when driving ships and the faster you travel, the farther forward the pivot point moves.
So here’s how I’m thinking of proceeding (actually before you mentioned this):
- Making up a “cap” of flotation to the top of the ROV so it covers the entire top with cutouts for the intakes. Think like the large scale ROV’s.
- Remove the forward 2 oz weights and add more weight in the aft section until it is neutrally buoyant. This essentially does what you are talking about. This moves the “moment” (I think that is the correct term?) futher aft and closer to the thrusters.