Finding Acrylic Cement Outside the USA

to add my tuppenceworth:-

I’m not a fan of dichloromethane solvent or any of the liquid cements alone, since they don’t have any gap filling abilities. ( lets say the end of a tube is not quite square or true, a plate is not perfectly flat, or has a small chip in the edge ) and you are kind of at the mercy of where the solvent flows rather than where you want it to go!

For critical structural joints i would recommend TENSOL 70 acrylic cement which has proved itself for me over many years for perspex assembly. readily available in UK from trade plastics suppliers.

TENSOL 70 is a two part( resin and catalyst ) that produces a proper structural bond.
its quite viscous and doesn’t produce a white bloom on the material.( unless you clean off excess from an area in which case it will of course damage the surface finish of the part )

its not cheap though ( i think 500ml is standard size) ,but you can just mix up enough to carry out the task in hand. and do consider that it is extremely evil from a fumes perspective, as with many of these types of adhesives. DO NOT use in an enclosed space or without adequate ventilation & i would not recommend it if you are particularly sensitive to strong chemical smells!
it can also produce some heat when curing so dont be alarmed when it gets hot!

it’s probably similar / same to what is sold by Evonik (plexiglass ) / Tensol ( perspex )

regards
stuart

I haven’t had too much experience with the pure dichloromethane, but I can wholeheartedly say that the water thin solvent type cement is ideal for our build. The gap filling compounds are indeed strong and helpful when things are poorly joined, but five years of optimizing for the solvent type cements listed at the beginning has led to strong feelings towards this.

I would like to acknowledge that Stuart is indeed correct about critical structural joints needing something more substantial especially when the fit isn’t perfect. For most acrylic modelers, both types of joining compounds have their uses. I’d say if you you got it, then go ahead and use it, but if you can only get one type, please go for the water thin, many aspects of our design require use of the capillary effect to correctly bond our design.

Thanks for the continued discussion on this, everyone.

~Zack

Hi Zack

Agree - certainly the resin types are no use if capillary action is desired or indeed designed, as per many details of the Openrov assembly.

i suppose the various options proposed in this thread boil down to two basic product categories:-

  1. Solvent
  2. Solvent/resin mixtures

And the ultimate choice of exact product will depend on what is available at reasonable price in your area.

one thing to be aware of with the resins is of course that you inevitably get a slight fillet at the joints which can hamper further assembly if subsequent parts are meant to butt tightly into a corner for example.

regards
stuart

Ah…interesting…I didn’t think of that. I bet it would be an issue for a
few of our parts to have a fillet. I know in times past we used the resin
to build up on some areas just for that reason…thanks for bringing that
up.

~Z

HONG KONG

Has anyone had any luck sourcing Acrylic Cement in Hong Kong?
Also, is there something special about the applicator of the recommended 2-ton epoxy, or will any strong epoxy do the trick?

Regarding the epoxy, we’ve tested the ROVs with a good deal of epoxies and
haven’t discovered anything the flat out wont work. The issue is that
we’ve only thoroughly tested a few versions to 100m depths. So simply put,
I think it will work, but use at your own risk.

Let me know what you find, we can match up the data sheet and maybe find
some alternatives.

Z

HONG KONG

I’ve had no luck finding the recommended Acrylic Cements in Hong Kong, but there are many shops making acrylic-based signs on Reclamation Street in Sham Shui Po, and they use and sell Chloroform. Very inexpensive, only a few dollars a bottle.

I bought a few bits of scrap acrylic too, and practiced joining them with the chloroform, and I’d recommend this idea - it bonds very quickly, with very little time to adjust alignment so a little practice was welcomed.

Gurus - are there any downsides to using Chloroform? It certainly seems to make a very strong bond.

Here’s one for Australia.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ACRI-BOND-110-Acrylic-Cement-Adhesive-Glue-100ml-for-PC-Acrylic-HIPS-ABS-PVC-/301431516530?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item462eb7ed72

Chloroform works according to some of our community members, but we’ve never tried the pure stuff in house. Also, that’s the main ingredient in some of our solvents here in the US…so I’d imagine it;s probably a good option.

Use in a ventilated area.

Zack

Hi,
in Italy (and Europe) the (real) acrilic cement is impossible to find!
You can not import it from the US.
After much research I found a factory that produces acrylic panels which also produces the glue.
It is located in San Dorligo della Valle, near Trieste (north-east Italy)
http://www.plastidite.com/category/articoli/colle/
They have recommended the liquid glue UV reactive.
Works well for capillarity, it allows you to place the pieces and hardens to UV exposure.
Very strong bonding.
Available even dense glue, to fill the cavities.
I used a UVA sunlamp (Philips HPA400).
Excellent result.
Important: The glue must be kept in the cold (preferably in the refrigerator, not the freezer) and in the dark. During bonding wery low light. Before use the cement must be at normal room temperature.

I ask if it is possible to use the dense glue to fill the holes for the cables, instead of epoxy resin.
When it hardens (UV) it becomes acrilic, transparent and indistinguishable from the rest.

Stefano

And, what about using chloroform or ether? In Spain it’s impossible to find anything similar to the “WELD ON IPS XX”

You might be able to find the acrifix. Check the top of the thread.

Maybe it is of use for other German or European ROV builders:

I could not get my hands on the products mentioned above because most of them are restricted not to be sold for private use. So I bought 100 ml Dichlormethan from an online shop for model making and architecture materials.

https://www.modulor.de/Klebstoff-Klebeband/Klebstoffe/Loesungsmittel-Dichlormethan/Dichlormethan-Methylenchlorid.html?redirected=1

The stuff is not very healthy so I always wore latex gloves (dont use vinyl gloves they melt instantly) and worked in a well ventilated area. Dichlormethan is thin like water so I used the tip of a 0,2 mm syringe needle attached to a small dropping pipette. This worked very well but I recommend to practice cementing small pieces of acrylic because it takes a little practice and the curing time of the Dichlormethan is very short. About 10 s for larger surfaces like the big end caps.

This is good stuff to know, thanks Oger.

Zack

Hi there,
For fabricating the large end caps,
I cant access Devcon 23145 2 ton epoxy here in New Zealand.
Anyone know if Weld-on 40 is a suitable substitute ?
Its a two part epoxy, says its good for Acrylic, has good pressure rating. It is fairly expensive, but don’t
want to skimp on this part of the assemble.
Appreciate any advice.

Cheers
Kel

Access the DEVCON website and download their technical data sheet (TDS), then compare with what you can get in NZ. Particularly interesting is the part about tensile strenght.
On the other hand, there are no particular transport restrictions on epoxy (on acrylic cement there is), so if you can find a forwarder in the US you might be better off getting it shipped.

Thanks for your reply. When I look at places like Amazon, there is a suggestion that Air Freight is not allowed. I’ll look into sea freight. Thanks again for yr interest. Cheers.
.

Thanks for your reply.
Yes, I have an Acrylic cement “Sci grip #4” which seems to do the gluing pretty well.
The Devcon epoxy is recommended for sealing/potting the wires thru the end cap. It seems no supplier will send it air freight, so I will look at sea freight, if I cant get suitable substitute.

Cheers

Hi Kel

The self-mixing nozzles that come with the Devcon brand epoxy are excellent. If you’re forced to use another brand (without the self-mixing nozzle), it would be a good idea to have a few empty syringes to hand. After you’ve mixed your epoxy in a container (and it hopefully isn’t full of air bubbles), you can use a spare syringe as an applicator. You need the ability to deliver the mixed epoxy into some tight spots, and into the small holes in the battery end caps too.

Good luck!

Thanks James, your comments appreciated. I’m still trying to sort out getting some Devcon from USA.