ESC HELP Calibrating Arduino


#1

Good morming,

I'm having trouble calibrating the Brushless motors with the ESC and arduino UNO. I have:

  • Arduino UNO
  • Turnigy Series Brushless Speed Controller
  • Brushless motor

The problem I'm having is that the motors turns only in one direction, if I changes the values when I calibrate the ESC the motor goes in other direction but I cant make it change direction with the same calibration values.

The conection I believe they are correct because it works, but not as I expected. I guess the problem is the ESC, I dont know if you have been in asimliar situation...

Thank you very much for your help


Custom ROV For Senior Project
#2

Not certain how you have that setup, but double check the programing on the ESC as they may have to be put in a mode that enables reverse.


#3

The Default mode of 'brake/reverse type' setting, is option 1 'reverse lockout' and it needs to be option 3 'forward/brake/reverse' for the turnigy ESCs that I am using (Turnigy Trackstar 1/18 scale). You can do this by the manual programing method explained in the instructions that come with the ESC, or buy the programming card. The card makes programming trivial, with one exception. The card is supposed to be for all of the trackstar ESCs, but it has slightly different settings than the instructions describe for my ESC. It does seem to set all of the important settings correctly except for 'reverse amount' which it (the programming card) doesn't program at all. Default is '50%'

Another problem is that I have had a hard time calibrating the ESCs while soldered to the board. Unplugging the Servo helped, but I was not able to calibrate the vertical ESC. The vertical ESC does seem to work though...

Also, when I activate the Motors, by say pressing forward, one motor starts before the other. Eric tried turning up the power level and that did seem to help.

If anyone else has tried these ESCs and has had a different experience (or a similar one!) please let me know.

Thanks!

Darcy


#4

Hi Darcy:

We should definitely compare notes on the Turnigy Trackstar 1/18 ESCs; here at OROV we're looking at using them in a couple of future ROV designs. As you note, the programming card differs slightly from the written instructions, and we're still scratching our heads a bit on how to deal with this. If anyone else out there is using these ESCs, please let us know about your experiences.

-W


#5

I'm using the Turnigy Trackstar 1/18 ESCs- I can write up something this weekend. What aspect are you looking at in particular (programming or performance?)


#6

Hi Kurt:

Either, but especially the programming aspect. We've fumbled around in the lab a bit trying to set the neutral deadzone for the ESCs (this is unavailable via the programming card), but have been unsuccessful so far.

Any opinions you have with regards to the general performance of the Trackstar 1/18 would be welcome as well.

-W


#7

I looked closely at the wording of the programming card description and noticed it says (words to the effect of) ‘most commonly used features’. So it seems that programming the reverse amount will have to be done manually. it is still worth the $7 for the programming card though, as it seems to do all of the other settings and programming manually is a bugger.

As an update to my previous reply, I was able to calibrate all of the ESCs. The servo needs to be unplugged (which I had forgotten is also true of the current ESCs. All the other ESCs need to be unplugged from the board (just the control plug not the soldered on bits). Having only one ESC plugged in at a time lets you calibrate them. The detail that confused me is that the vertical motor did not spin up when I was calibrating it (though the others did) and I thought that meant it was not working.

I still have to program the ‘reverse amount’. I am having a problem where the vertical motor does not always spin up when I press ‘CTRL’ for down. I suspect increasing the reverse amount to 100% will help, but obviously it should still do the default 50% as is.


#8

Hi Darcy, Kurt:

Have either of you tried this programming box with the Turnigy Trackstar 1/18 ESCs? The documentation on the HobbyKing site is confusing (it says Turnigy Trackstar but then says EZRun in parenthesis- and these are not the same ESC). But if it really works with the Trackstar ESCs it would be worth the investment in $$.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40295__Turnigy_Multifunction_LCD_Program_Box_for_Brushless_ESC.html

-Walt


#9

I haven’t tried that one, but ya, it does sound promising. :smiley:


#10

This is my first foray into ESC programming.

Is anyone familiar with the Castle Creations Field Link Programming Card and would it work on our Turnigy ESCs?


#11

Hi Erika:

I tried once to use a Castle Creations programmer to program a Turnigy ESC- it didn't work.

This thread had drifted towards the Turnigy Trackstar 1/18 ESCs, which are *NOT* the ESCs shipped with the kits. The kits have Hobbywing EZRUN ESCs. I believe that this is the programmer you need for those- at least this sure looks like the programmer that I have.

You don't necessarily need the programmer for the ESCs; it can be done manually. But it does save a bunch of time and frustration.

-W


#12

Hi Walt,

I´m using this ESC´s also, and as Darcy wrote it is difficult to program this.

I tried it with this programming card:


But the better way is to program with the "beep-beep".

I used the parameters which also uses David Murphy, but it is still not working well.

1- 3 (forward/brake/reverse)

2 - 1 (25% braking power)

3 - 4 (all power in reverse)

4 - 1(high acceleration limiting)

5 - 1 (drag brake disabled)

6 - 5 (smallest) throttle dead band

7 - 1 (none) no low voltage cutoff

8 - 1 (lowest) motor timing

I have the problem that port engine starts later than the starboard engine. They also start with delay to button press.

What is meant by this setting?


Maybe it's due to the power supply, I use a converted ATX power supply.
Any ideas?
Regards,
Bernhard


#13

Hello Bernhard.
I observed at tests, that if you to put deadzone min. and max to zero, no longer have time difference between port engine startup and Starboard engine.
I had the same problem, so I got it.
And even if there acaeadiferenta is very small and I could not see it with the eye.