I need an option for a battery to use in the rov. I’m calculating the budget required for making an rov
OpenROV sells batteries for the ROV. You can find the normal capacity ones here, and the high capacity ones here. If your not building a stock OpenROV configuration, you can extrapolate what is needed from this point and find something appropriate to your build.
Unfortunately you haven’t given enough information for anyone to help much beyond this.
Feel like mailing you is just cleaner. We plan to use 6 t100 thrusters
(blue robotics), just help me with the appropriate battery for it. Ps:
there is a number of options for tether interface boards, some help there
would be appreciated and could you tell me what cable is used once the
former is deployed needs to be used for the transmission. Thanks.
Since you have not provided any information on the size or configuration of your housing, we are working blind. I used a piece of 6" PVC pipe for my dry housing and found that a Duracell 12V 7AH rechargeable UPS battery fit well on it’s side and had room to place the control boards on top. This put the weight low on the unit for balance and trim and kept the boards high and dry above it, even when there was a leak.
Could you maybe send me a link or add a picture of your device. I might use a 4" enclosure from blue robotics and a battery enclosure from open ROV for batteries from the same dealer(rechargeable Li-FePo4), but if there’s a better option please suggest one and thanks to all of you for the support it means the world from where I’m standing.
I’m going through yet another issue at the moment, is it okay if i use a servo for the rotation of the rov because that seems like the most simple and cheap way to help with the rotation. If not then how many thrusters (I’m using blue robotics t100 thrusters) do i need for proper movement and rotation of the rov and the deployment of these thrusters in that case. Thanks
Sorry, I thought I posted a link to Rover 1 build in the message. Rover 1 - OpenROV in a recycled body
The actual size of the PVC I recycled was 5" not 6. The battery I used will not fit in a 4" tube, but if you go to “Batteries +” or “Batteries and Bulbs”, they have a wide selection of rechargeable batteries to select from. My suggestion is pick a high Amp Hour (AH) unit that will fit in your main tube, rather than multiple tubes that increase the possibility of leak. Keep the battery low to keep the center of gravity low and aid in trim.
As far as thrusters and servos, I am going to defer to “TCI III” https://forum.openrov.com/u/tciii/summary. He probably has forgotten more than I will ever learn on physical builds and thrusters. He posts here and in the Blue ROV forum. He also has done some hybrids with combined parts that look great.
Well i suppose I’ll buy a 5" instead of a 4" then, but could you please be kind enough to give me a link to a good battery that i could use
I am not an OpenROV engineer, but an end user. I posted links already to the batteries in my first response. If those batteries aren’t suitable for your application, you need to determine what will be.
No a servo won’t work. Turning is done with differential thrust. It is all controlled by the controller board and the software loaded into the beaglebone computer.
Ok with the battery, vut could you explain the turning part for once.
Pretty simple actually. It works on the same principal a tank does. Turning is done by powering one forward thruster up more than the thruster on the other side. Or even having the thruster on the other side run backwards.
This is all done by the OpenROV controller board and the Beaglebone computer. There are other controller schemes that would accomplish this too. This is very basically how an air UAV is controlled (although ones for air use different configurations of the “thrusters”). Blue Robotics is powered up with a modified version of this called ArduSub for pixhawk flight controllers.
But there is a reason why even Blue Robotics uses a controller and a computer. Since control signals have to be send down tethers as RC radio waves do not penetrate the water surface at all, or very far, a simple method has to be put into place to get video feed back up a tether.
Seems the best way to accomplish this for us hobbyists, is to turn the submarine into a “networked” computer node.
Back to your project though. If your planning on using the OpenROV platform to control your sub, stick around here. If you looking for alternative methods of control, then go over to the RCGroups ROV Forum here: There are a few of us over there actually talking about other controller ideas.
From a simplicity standpoint, I would really suggest purchasing a full 2.8v kit from OpenROV here. All these questions are not only answered, but also solved with a ready to assemble product. Unless you have an extensive background in drones/radio controlled/programming/and electronics, building your own from a pile of parts is no easy task.
I don’t want to sound rude, but the questions your asking here are part of that very basic understanding needed to accomplish this. If you need to accomplish this for a much smaller budget than purchasing an ROV kit, it simply isn’t feasible to do so. Building your own will spread out the budget, but once completed your going to come in at about the same amount spent. Is there an advantage? Sure, it will be built just the way you want. You might also save some since you install any upgrades you want right off the top.
What I have learned in the past though is to start off with a kit, unless you are 100% sure you can build your own and complete it successfully.
There are also a few consumer level ROV out on the market already. Give it another 1-2yrs and the number I am sure will multiply.
EDIT: The Trident will be one of the most awesome setups out there, if you can wait a little bit for the first wave of test units to get tried out. They are finally shipping units it seems! I am pretty likely to be picking one of these up in the near future. But for now, I wanted to build a very specific platform. The price on the Trident is going to be really hard to beat for a compleat and functioning setup.