2.6 Build Questions


#1

I am going through the online guide for the V2.6 build and there are a couple of missing bits of information (as far as I can tell) that leads me to the following questions. Please excuse any obvious queries -- I just want to be clear on the build steps.

  1. To what do the red/black wires from the LED lights connect? There is no mention of this in the build instructions (2.5 and 2.6). Based on the soundless video, I believe the connection is to J1 of the controller board but the image is dark. If this is correct, are the wires just jammed into the holes or is there a better means of securing the wires to the board?
  2. When/where are the laser guides attached? No mention is made of these items in the V2.6 guide.
  3. Is there a preferred orientation for the main acrylic tube? Is the flat end supposed to go down?
  4. Should the camera housing be aligned in an up/down plane or tilted downward?
  5. How is the wiring for the DB25 connector best bent/coiled so that the assembly fits in the tube? W
  6. What are the current ESC calibration instructions? It seems that this should be done before the final assembly. Should the motors work w/o the initial setup/calibration? (mine didnt)
  7. What is the URL for the OpenROV (I assume its http://192.168.254.1). I saw a port mentioned (8080) but that doesn't appear to be necessary.
  8. What's the point of the plungers inside the cut syringe tubes? When are the plungers themselves cut? Why have them at all?
  9. What does one do if the positive end of the battery tube does not make contact with the batteries? I added some layers of solder to extend the contact plate but this seems kludgy. Does anyone else have this issue?
  10. What holds the propellor motor housing onto the shafts? I can see how in the forward direction the force would push the propellors onto the shaft but what happens in reverse?
  11. Are the extra (6) wires just left exposed?
  12. Does the USB cord to the camera have to be so long? Could it be cut/shortened to make that end of the housing cleaner/easier fitting? Has anyone done this?
  13. Could someone add some "finished" photos of the boards/wires as well as closeups of completed builds so that we can assure that everything is where it needs to be?
  14. Once assembled, where does the IMU attach to the ROV?

Thanks!


#2

Great questions. We're working around the clock to update the instructions and many of your questions will help us formulate a better how to. A few quick answers to keep you going while we build better instructions:

1. We've got this, currently its step 46.

2. Currently we're still working this out...I know this is really sloppy...but very soon we should have a step or two on this. Stay tuned!

3. Flat edge down towards the battery tubes. Definitely we're going to add a step about this.

4. Straight forward. If the servo arm has been centered (see dozuki on this...we just added a diagram) then you can tilt up then down with the cockpit.

5. Done correctly, it should just be the length needed to the epoxy with a little extra...pushing the endcap on should be all that is needed.

6. We're going to add a step and a video soon but until then check the wiki here http://wiki.openrov.com/index.php/Programming_the_ESC.

7. We've made a change to include this.

8. The plungers allow you to close the tube without creating a positive pressure. Put the endcap in, the the plunger. The Dozuki will be changed to include a step about cutting them to length to fit within the shell.

9. I would probably solder on a conductive metal washer...this is the first we've heard of this...interesting. Please let me know if this is still a problem.

10. The magnets are strong enough to hold the motor bell rotor onto the stator for sure. Make sure it engages fully (meaning-its pushed down all the way).

11. Yes, but hot glue the ends to prevent hosing.

12. Haven't tried this yet. In theory, yes you can make it shorter.

13. We will be updating the dozuki constantly.

14. I like to put mine underneath the V in OpenROV on the starboard aft side.

Best,

~OROV


#3

Hi Carl

As a newbee to this project i will try to answer some of your questions which I had myself.

1. I connected to the J1 terminal, red to positive and black to negative. I tinned the end of the wire to make them stiff before inserting.

2. This was addressed last week. They are connected in paralled and inserted next to the LED terminal connection and in a similiar manner.

3. Flat end down against the battery tube

4. I tilted mine slightly down.

5. 6. and 7. Still a work in progress for me.

8. The holes in the end caps allow for the air to escape while assembling the end caps. Once installed put the cut off plungers back in place. I expect the water pressure to hold them there.

9. ??

10. The propellors should be epoxied on after installing some shrink wrap on the shafts.

11. I tinned them then covered them in epoxy to prevent water from migrating up the jacket.

12. Some people have shortened this wire, I didn't.

13. 14. ????

Good luck

Dave